Cape Town has been on my travel bucket list for a few years now. After hearing so many great things from people who lived, studied, and vacationed there I was patiently waiting for the timing to work out for this trip. Luckily, this was the year. We arrived in Cape Town on the afternoon of January 2nd which also happens to be the day of their annual minstrel festival - also known as the Kaapse Klopse or Tweede Nuwe jaar (Second New Year). The Tweede Nuwe jaar is a festival where 13,000 minstrels (performers specializing in instruments, dance, and song) perform through the streets of Cape Town each group representing a township and march from Zonnebloem to the Bo-Kaap neighborhood. The parade on the 2nd is actually only the start to a weekly competition that runs until mid-February. Each minstrel club competes in a variety of categories including best dress, best band, best chorus, etc. These groups put in countless of hours of rehearsals for this historic traditional event and it's definitely a sight to see. Like much of the Mother City, the Tweede Nuwe jaar has a rich history that's worth learning more about. You can read more about the origin, history, and current traditions of the festival here. Streets are closed and lined with spectators which made our first few hours in Cape Town colorful and chaotic but in all the good ways.
Luckily for us our great AirBnB host met us on the crowded streets to help us navigate our way through the closed streets to the apartment. We had picked an apartment located close to the central business district in the City Bowl neighborhood. From here we were easily able to navigate around the city via Uber and foot. Staying in City Bowl put us within walking distance of many great coffee shops, markets, trendy restaurants, the popular Long Street and Bree Street and really gave us a good feel for the rich diversity of the city.
Table Mountain and Bo-Kaap
The day after our arrival we woke with ambitions to reach the top of Table Mountain, but it's safe to say that we had no clue of what we were getting into. We started the day with breakfast at Bread Milk and Honey a very charming coffee shop located a few blocks away from our apartment on Spin Street. After some coffee, eggs, and toasties, we took a short Uber to the Table Mountain national park. Throughout our time in Cape Town we ended up using Uber as our main means for getting around (when we couldn't walk). They are very cheap and the wait time was never more than five minutes. By now, I'm sure you recognize Table Mountain as the icon backdrop of the Mother City and if are visiting Cape Town it's almost a right of passage to trek to the top. Alternatively, if you aren't able to make the hike you can take the cable car to the top but it's recommended to book in advanced.
If you are like us though and feeling adventurous and you're prepared the hike is a rewarding challenge and phenomenal experience. My recommendation would be to start as early in the day as possible. The hike up took us about 2 1/2 hours and the way down took us about an hour and forty-five minutes. This is probably on the quicker end of the spectrum as others we encountered said it had taken them about 3-4 hours on the way up. In the summer months you'll want to start early to avoid the heat as well.
We started on the trail that opens at the the lower cable station and hiked up to the Upper Contour Path (yellow star on the map) From here it was a fairly easy hike (flat and rocky) across the side of the mountain (Upper Contour Path). Once you hit the part of the trail I've highlighted in yellow, things get more challenging. It's rocky, very steep, and there's little to no shade.
As I mentioned, for much of the hike you are exposed to the sun, so be prepared with sunscreen, a hat, and lots of water. I also recommend carrying as little as possible and keeping your hands free. A small backpack is ideal. Please do not attempt this climb in sandals or anything other than a sturdy pair of sneakers or hiking boots. You will want something with a thick sole that provides a lot of support. This is by no means an easy hike and there's no easy way of getting back down once you've started so please know your own limits. If you do take on the challenge or even if you decide to take the cable car the view at the top won't disappoint. Be sure to take a moment, put down your camera, phone, and selfie stick and just breath and take it all in.
We felt really accomplished but exhausted after our hike, so we relaxed for a few hours before deciding to take a short walk over to the Bo-Kaap neighborhood. Bo-Kaap is located on the slopes of Signal Hill and is a historic centre for the Cape Malay culture in Cape Town. It's recognized by it's brightly colored homes. As mentioned earlier, there is a ton of interesting and unique history to discover in Cape Town and the Bo-Kaap neighborhood and Cape Malay culture as plenty of its own. I recommend taking a few minutes to read about some of the history here. We had decided to try a restaurant called Bo-Kaap Kombuis based on a few recommendations for where to get a traditional Cape Malay food. The recommendations came not just for the food but for the service and the stunning backdrop of Table Mountain and Lion's Head that can be seen from their main dining area. We wanted to see if they were full for the evening or if we could put our name down for a table so we arrived a few minutes before they opened. We were greeted by one of the staff members as we were sitting outside who invited us to sit on their back porch and take in the views while we waited for them to open. We were told that although they were booked for the evening, they would set up a table to accommodate us. It happened to be a night they were serving a buffet style dinner of traditional Cape Malay cuisine. After salivating over the menu and agonizing over what one dish we would each order, this was amazing news. Of course we tried a little of everything and I can't tell you exactly what I ate but it included lots of rice, spices, curries, lamb, seafood and of course really good na'an. Be sure to make a stop here if you are in the neighborhood and come hungry!
Cape of Good Hope Up next was the Cape of Good Hope. The Cape of Good Hope is also a nature reserve that's part of the Table Mountain National Park. It's commonly confused as the most southern tip of Africa but this is actually Cape Agulhas. However, Cape of Good Hope has played a significant part in history as it marks where ships start traveling more eastward than southward and has become a significant landmark to sailors. Since I did not rent a car for this trip, the easiest way to the cape was by bus. We decided to use City Sight Seeing South Africa. I'm usually against traditional sightseeing tours as they are too commercial but this is one I'd actually recommend. The bus picked us up at the Green Point Light house right on time and we had a fantastic tour guide who had a lot of interesting facts about the neighborhoods we drove through as well as the history of the cape itself. One of things I learned throughout this trip is how proud South Africans are of their country and its history (both the good and the bad parts). Once we got to the Cape we had a few hours on our own which was perfect. From the parking lot you can either walk up to the lighthouse or take the Flying Dutchman Funicular - personally I recommend the walk. There are a few scenic walks that you can take around the lighthouse and even down to the beach area - just watch out for the baboons! There is a restaurant, Two Oceans Restaurant, and a casual grab and go place where you can stop for something to eat once you've taken in the views.
V&A Waterfront and Robben Island
One of the top things on my list to do during this trip was to visit Robben Island. Robben Island is most famously known for being the island where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years in prison but has fascinating history even before that. It's a South African National Heritage Site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Dutch were first to use this island as a prison, mostly for political prisoners, starting at the end of the 17th century but it was also used as a leper colony starting in 1845. The tour, which lasts about 3.5 hours, includes the ferry ride to the island and back and gives a history of the island and stops at historical sites which include a tour of the maximum security prison. The main attraction of the tour is definitely the maximum security prison and even more so the cell assigned to Nelson Mandela, but I think it's also important to take a moment to remember that there were many other influential political prisoners that served time on Robben Island whose stories are just as inspiring. Throughout this trip, one of the things I found most humbling was how little I knew about the history of South Africa and the events that really shaped the country. I had to keep reminding myself that apartheid was only abolished in 1991, which in terms of history is really not that long ago. I learned so much about the past of South Africa while there but there's still so much more to learn. Taking a few minutes to read about some of the history before traveling and will only add to your experience.
We had booked an evening tour of the island so we spent the morning at the V&A Waterfront. We started with a brunch at Tasha's, which I highly recommend, located in the V&A Waterfront Mall (which itself is a site to see). The waterfront provided a completely different feel from City Bowl and the other neighborhoods we had explored - and that's part of what makes this city so great. It's probably one of Cape Town's more popular destinations and is known for it's shopping and restaurants. Walking around there's ton's to see from the boats at port and the lively street performers and all the shops along the way. There's a ton of restaurants to grab a good lunch of dinner of even just have a drink with the view of the harbour in front of you and Table Mountain behind you. Stop in at the V&A Market on the Wharf and I promise you won't be disappointed. It's absolute foodie heaven and your taste buds will thank you. Explore regional delicacies, breads, cheese, ice creams, beer, and even vegan options here. I could've easily spent a few hours here each day.
You can book a tour of Robben Island in advance here or try your luck at stopping in and reserving tickets in person.
Long Street and First Thursdays
If you are lucky the timing of your trip will work out so that you are in Cape Town on the first Thursday of the month and get to experience a "First Thursday". On the first Thursday of every month shops, art galleries, and other cultural events around Cape Town's central city stay open later to the public. There's no specific scheduled or guided tour but I encourage you to go out a walk around and follow the crowds. There will be a ton of people out and it's a great way to experience some of the art galleries in the city. You can check out what events are being highlighted each month here.
Long street is another great place to roam with no real agenda both during the day and at night - just be stay alert if you are out at night. It's located in the City Bowl area and has a very bohemian feel to it. Be sure to check out some of the beautiful old Victorian buildings that can be found lining the street. There are a few bookstores, African markets, and antique stores worth browsing and no shortage of restaurants. One place I have to recommend, especially for brunch, is Lola's. It's small, and seems to have a regular crowd but it was good enough for me to order two different meals from the menu and devour both of them - if they are serving the french toast, get it!
I think it's safe to say there's a little bit of something for everyone in this city and we definitely didn't come close to experience all it had to offer. From markets, to great hikes, national parks, wine tastings, and great food, Cape Town really is an amazing and unique city that I can easily see becoming a top tourist destination.
To see more pictures from my time in Cape Town follow me on Instagram: Miles to Monday
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