If there’s anything more opposite than New York in January, it’s Cartagena. Colombia’s fifth largest city, it’s located on the northern coast in the Caribbean region. Founded in 1533, the city developed quickly after establishing itself as an important port city for South and Central America. During the 17th century the city also played a significant role in the slave trade which continued to help the city flourish while having a substantial impact on many aspects of its culture. Because of its growth and reputation, Cartagena eventually became a prime target for numerous attacks and sieges by pirates. To help the city defend itself, the Spanish decided to build a massive wall which took two centuries to complete. The area inside these walls became known as the Ciudad Amurallada (walled city) and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Today, Cartagena remains an important port city and has attracted immigrants from all continents. My first trip to Cartagena was in June of 2017 and as soon as I left, I knew I was coming back. In the words of a Colombian native, “it’s like a little bit of heaven below the clouds”. From New York, it’s only a five-hour flight and if you book in advanced you can find great flight deals (try JetBlue and Spirit). The old city is extremely walkable, so staying anywhere inside the walls will make exploring easy. For this trip we stayed at a great Airbnb near Plaza de San Diego.
The Streets of Cartagena
There’s a lot to see in Cartagena from the churches, palace of inquisition, and the walls themselves, but my suggestion is to leave a set agenda at home. Walking through Cartagena’s labyrinth cobblestone streets, feels as though you’ve taken a step back in time. There’s a lot of local shops and sites to discover that you won’t necessarily find in a guide book. The streets themselves are a sight. The colonial buildings are painted in hues of bright yellows, oranges, and blues, and decorated in flower covered balconies. You’ll find all the colonial buildings have been well preserved and this is in part due to a fire that destroyed much of the city in 1552. At that time most of the buildings were made from wood and were reduced to ash. After this the city required that all buildings be made from stone, tile or brick.
Be sure to take note of not only the colors of the buildings but also the doors. Large ornate doors were a symbol of wealth and were opened when inviting guests into the home. The smaller doors were used for everyday traffic which helped keep homes cooler by blocking out the hot tropical winds. You’ll also find an assortment of different door knockers, or aldabas, including lizards, sea creatures, and lions. Like the doors, these aldabas acted as a symbol of wealth and status. Lizards were found on the doors of royal families, lions were for those in the military, and sea creatures represented merchants.
Despite the heat, you’ll find the city is full of energy and packed with locals, tourists, cars, vendors, and the occasional horse drawn carriage. You’ll hear languages from all over the world and I guarantee you’ll see at least one wedding party march through the streets during your stay. Be ready to be approached be street vendors (a simple no thanks will send them on their way) and at least one or two street performers wanting to sing for you. When it does start to feel too hot and overwhelming, stop into any of the open-air cafes to recharge.
Coco Museo
If you are looking for something a little bit different, fun and hands on, sign up for a chocolate making workshop at Cartagena’s ChocoMuseo. You can sign up online for the two- hour workshop which costs $25 per person. You’ll get an overview of the history of chocolate and what types of cocoa beans grow where in Colombia. Then you’ll not only get to make your own chocolate, but you’ll learn how to make cocoa tea from the shells of the cocoa beans, hot cocoa, and a spicy cocoa drink that came from the ancient Mayans. The museum also has a store in front which you can visit for free and sample any of their chocolate products, all which have been made right there. They also have their own café, so if you opt out of the workshop at least stop in here to try the Maya drink or a chocolate shake.
Street Food Tour
I’ll warn you now that Cartagena will probably not be your healthiest vacation. Although you’ll do plenty of walking, I guarantee you’ll spend a good amount of time soaking up some vitamin D while drinking a mojito or two. You’ll never be able to escape the smell of fried dough coming from the many street carts and you’ll eventually have to give in and try some of the local street food. Before jumping in on your own, I recommend taking the street food tour offered by Cartagena Connects to get the full culinary lowdown. On the tour, you’ll try everything from arepas, matrimonio, and chicharrones while getting to see the city from a local’s point of view. The tour is about 2 hours and starts in near Plaza de San Diego and ends in the Getsemani neighborhood. Sign up here!
Minca and Casa Elemento
If you plan to stay in Cartagena for at least a week and you’re looking to adventure outside the city, try staying a night or two in Minca at Casa Elemento. Located near the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this hostel features giant hammocks and attracts backpackers from all over. You have the option of sleeping inside in one of the dorm rooms, a tree house, or in one of the outdoor hammocks. My recommendation is to go for the hammocks - it’s a once in a lifetime experience. Meals are served family style and made from fresh, locally sourced healthy foods which is a nice break form the fried food of Cartagena. During the day you can enjoy the pool, the hammocks, or one of their jungle activity tours. At night the temperature will drop a bit and you’ll find people hanging out at the outdoor bar or sitting around the bonfire.
To get there, you can book a bus through Juan Ballena that will pick you up in Cartagena and take you to Santa Marta for about $23. The ride is about 4 hours and from Santa Marta you can have a car take you up to Minca. Once you get to Minca you have a few options. You can either arrange for the hostel to have a Jeep pick you up, take a ride on one of the moto-taxis or hike. The hike takes about 2-3 hours and is the most scenic of the three options. It’s a good opportunity to get your legs moving and your mind calm after a few busy days in Cartagena.
To see more pictures from my time in Cartagena, check out my Instagram @milestomonday
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